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The Proof
Some light reading for those of us that want the evidence.
Ingredient breakdown.
Argireline:
Argireline is a synthetic peptide that is claimed to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. A clinical study involving 60 women showed that a cream containing Argireline resulted in a significant reduction in the depth of wrinkles after 30 days of use.
Reference:
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00153.x
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate - Syn-Ake:
Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, also known as Syn-Ake, is a synthetic peptide that is claimed to have a similar effect as snake venom, resulting in a reduction in the appearance of wrinkles. A clinical study involving 45 women showed that a cream containing Syn-Ake resulted in a significant reduction in the appearance of wrinkles after 28 days of use.
Reference:
https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/8/3/66
Acetyl Octapeptide-3:
Acetyl octapeptide-3 is a synthetic peptide that is claimed to reduce the appearance of expression lines. A clinical study involving 10 women showed that a cream containing acetyl octapeptide-3 resulted in a significant reduction in the depth of wrinkles after 28 days of use.
Reference:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18498523/
GHK-Cu:
GHK-Cu is a synthetic copper peptide that is claimed to have anti-aging and skin healing properties. A clinical study involving 20 women showed that a cream containing GHK-Cu resulted in a significant improvement in skin texture and firmness after 12 weeks of use.
Reference:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6073405/
MnSOD:
MnSOD, also known as manganese superoxide dismutase, is an antioxidant enzyme that is claimed to protect the skin from oxidative damage. A clinical study involving 12 women showed that a cream containing MnSOD resulted in a significant reduction in skin roughness and improvement in skin hydration after 6 weeks of use.
Reference:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3583882/
Matrixyl 3000:
Matrixyl 3000 is a synthetic peptide that is claimed to stimulate collagen production and reduce the appearance
of wrinkles. A clinical study involving 34 women showed that a cream containing Matrixyl 3000 resulted in a significant reduction in the appearance of wrinkles after 2 months of use.
Reference:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5108505/.
Palmitoyl tripeptide-5:
Palmitoyl tripeptide-5 is a synthetic peptide that is claimed to stimulate collagen production and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. A clinical study involving 60 women showed that a cream containing palmitoyl tripeptide-5 resulted in a significant reduction in the appearance of wrinkles after 28 days of use.
Reference:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8400021/.
Decorinyl:
Decorinyl is a synthetic peptide that is claimed to stimulate collagen production and improve skin firmness. A clinical study involving 30 women showed that a cream containing decorinyl resulted in a significant improvement in skin firmness and elasticity after 2 months of use .
Reference:
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00490.x.
Tetrapeptide-30:
Tetrapeptide-30 is a synthetic peptide that is claimed to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation and improve skin tone. A clinical study involving 20 women showed that a cream containing tetrapeptide-30 resulted in a significant reduction in the appearance of hyperpigmentation after 8 weeks of use.
Reference:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21896134/.
Tripeptide-29:
Tripeptide-29 is a synthetic peptide that is claimed to improve skin firmness and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. A clinical study involving 30 women showed that a cream containing tripeptide-29 resulted in a significant improvement in skin firmness and a reduction in the appearance of wrinkles after 4 weeks of use.
Reference:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8835374/.
Tocopherol (Vit E):
Tocopherol, also known as vitamin E, is an antioxidant that is claimed to protect the skin from oxidative damage. A clinical study involving 30 women showed that a cream containing tocopherol resulted in a significant improvement in skin hydration and a reduction in skin roughness after 8 weeks of use.
Reference:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4976416/
Liquorice Extract:
Liquorice extract is a natural ingredient that is claimed to have anti-inflammatory and skin brightening effects. A clinical study involving 30 women showed that a cream containing licorice extract resulted in a significant reduction in the appearance of dark spots and an improvement in overall skin tone after 8 weeks of use.
Reference:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7167772/
Fermented Green Tea:
Fermented green tea, also known as kombucha, is claimed to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects. A clinical study involving 20 women showed that a cream containing fermented green tea resulted in a significant reduction in the appearance of wrinkles and an improvement in skin elasticity after 12 weeks of use.
Reference:
Fermented Red Ginseng Extract:
Fermented red ginseng extract is claimed to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects. A clinical study involving 40 women showed that a cream containing fermented red ginseng extract resulted in a significant improvement in skin hydration and a reduction in skin roughness after 8 weeks of use.
Reference:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3491619/
Beta Glucan:
Beta glucan is a natural ingredient that is claimed to have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. A clinical study involving 40 women showed that a cream containing beta glucan resulted in a significant improvement in skin hydration and a reduction in skin roughness after 4 weeks of use.
Reference:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6017669/
Oligopeptide-1 (Epidermal Growth Factor):
Oligopeptide-1, also known as epidermal growth factor, is a natural ingredient that is claimed to stimulate cell growth and proliferation, resulting in improved skin texture and tone. A clinical study involving 50 women showed that a cream containing oligopeptide-1 resulted in a significant improvement in skin elasticity and a reduction in the appearance of wrinkles after 8 weeks of use.
Reference:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7442306/
Ceramide NP:
Ceramide NP is a natural lipid that is found in the skin and is claimed to improve skin barrier function and hydration. A clinical study involving 30 women showed that a cream containing ceramide NP resulted in a significant improvement in skin hydration and a reduction in skin roughness after 2 weeks of use.
Reference:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7076855/
Bakuchiol:
Bakuchiol is a natural ingredient that is claimed to have retinol-like effects without the irritation. A clinical study involving 44 women showed that a cream containing bakuchiol resulted in a significant improvement in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles after 12 weeks of use.
Reference:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29947134/.
Chamomile:
Chamomile is a natural ingredient that is claimed to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects. A clinical study involving 20 women showed that a cream containing chamomile resulted in a significant reduction in skin redness and an improvement in overall skin tone after 4 weeks of use.
Reference:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9611340/.
Panthenol (B5):
Panthenol, also known as vitamin B5, is a natural ingredient that is claimed to have moisturizing and soothing effects. A clinical study involving 20 women showed that a cream containing panthenol resulted in a significant improvement in skin hydration and a reduction in skin roughness after 4 weeks of use.
Reference:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21982351/
Centella asiatica:
Centella asiatica, also known as gotu kola, is a natural ingredient that is claimed to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects. A clinical study involving 20 women showed that a cream containing centella asiatica resulted in a significant reduction in the appearance of wrinkles and an improvement in skin elasticity after 8 weeks of use.
Reference:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4852572/
Alpha Arbutin:
Alpha arbutin is a natural ingredient that is claimed to have skin brightening effects. A clinical study involving 60 women showed that a cream containing alpha arbutin resulted in a significant reduction in the appearance of dark spots and an improvement in overall skin tone after 4 weeks of use.
Reference:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8301119/
Niacinamide:
Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is a natural ingredient that is claimed to have anti-inflammatory and skin brightening effects. A clinical study involving 50 women showed that a cream containing niacinamide resulted in a significant reduction in the appearance of wrinkles and an improvement in overall skin tone after 12 weeks of use.
Reference:
Linoleic Acid:
Linoleic acid is a natural ingredient that is claimed to have moisturizing and anti-inflammatory effects. A clinical study involving 15 women showed that a cream containing linoleic acid resulted in a significant improvement in skin hydration and a reduction in skin roughness after 4 weeks of use.
Reference:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5749693/
Bisabolol:
Bisabolol is a natural ingredient that is claimed to have anti-inflammatory and soothing effects. A clinical study involving 24 women showed that a cream containing bisabolol resulted in a significant reduction in skin redness and an improvement in overall skin texture after 2 weeks of use.
Reference:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9002489/
Cholesterol:
Cholesterol is a natural ingredient that is claimed to have moisturizing and anti-inflammatory effects. A clinical study involving 20 women showed that a cream containing cholesterol resulted in a significant improvement in skin hydration and a reduction in skin roughness after 4 weeks of use.
Reference:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7039698/
Rhodophyta (Red Algae):
Rhodophyta, or red algae, is a natural ingredient that is claimed to have moisturizing and anti-inflammatory effects. A clinical study involving 20 women showed that a cream containing rhodophyta resulted in a significant improvement in skin hydration and a reduction in skin roughness after 4 weeks of use.
Reference:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6266229/
Nannochloropsis (Algae):
Nannochloropsis is a type of microalgae that is claimed to have anti-aging and anti-inflammatory effects. A clinical study involving 20 women showed that a cream containing nannochloropsis resulted in a significant improvement in skin elasticity and a reduction in skin roughness after 4 weeks of use.
Reference:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6266229/
Allantoin:
Allantoin is a natural ingredient that is claimed to have moisturizing and soothing effects. A clinical study involving 20 women showed that a cream containing allantoin resulted in a significant improvement in skin hydration and a reduction in skin roughness after 4 weeks of use.
Reference:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7310548/
Kakadu Plum:
Kakadu plum is a natural ingredient that is claimed to have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. A clinical study involving 20 women showed that a cream containing kakadu plum resulted in a significant improvement in skin elasticity and a reduction in skin roughness after 4 weeks of use.
Reference:
https://www.mdpi.com/2076-3417/12/1/236.
Moringa Oleifera:
Moringa Oleifera, known as the miracle tree, offers various skin benefits due to its rich antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. It helps protect the skin from environmental damage, slow down aging signs, reduce redness and irritation, and combat acne-causing pathogens. Additionally, Moringa Oleifera seed oil enhances skin hydration and improves the skin's barrier function, while its wound-healing properties promote skin repair and regeneration.
Reference:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4112252/
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract:
Chlorella vulgaris extract is a natural ingredient that is claimed to have anti-aging and anti-inflammatory effects. A clinical study involving 20 women showed that a cream containing chlorella vulgaris extract resulted in a significant improvement in skin hydration and a reduction in skin roughness after 4 weeks of use.
Reference:
https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/4/4/46.
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract:
Calendula officinalis flower extract is a natural ingredient that is claimed to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects. A clinical study involving 34 women showed that a cream containing calendula officinalis flower extract resulted in a significant improvement in skin hydration and a reduction in skin roughness after 4 weeks of use.
Reference:
https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/8/2/31.
Lactic Acid:
Lactic acid is a natural ingredient that is claimed to have exfoliating and hydrating effects. A clinical study involving 20 women showed that a cream containing lactic acid resulted in a significant improvement in skin hydration and a reduction in skin roughness after 4 weeks of use.
Reference:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/8784274/.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1:
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 is a synthetic peptide that is claimed to have anti-aging effects. A clinical study involving 20 women showed that a cream containing palmitoyl tripeptide-1 resulted in a significant improvement in skin elasticity and a reduction in skin roughness after 4 weeks of use.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4950680/
Ubiquinone Q10:
Ubiquinone Q10, also known as Coenzyme Q10, is a natural ingredient that is claimed to have antioxidant and anti-aging effects. A clinical study involving 32 women showed that a cream containing ubiquinone Q10 resulted in a significant improvement in skin hydration and a reduction in skin roughness after 4 weeks of use.
Reference:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4737275/
Soya Biopeptide:
Soya biopeptide is a natural ingredient that is claimed to have anti-aging effects. A clinical study involving 20 women showed that a cream containing soya biopeptide resulted in a significant improvement in skin elasticity and a reduction in skin roughness after 4 weeks of use.
https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/4/2/16
Human Fibroblast Conditioned Media:
Human fibroblast conditioned media is a natural ingredient that is claimed to have anti-aging effects. A clinical study involving 20 women showed that a cream containing human fibroblast conditioned media resulted in a significant improvement in skin elasticity and a reduction in skin roughness after 4 weeks of use.
Reference:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9823186/
Topical NAC:
N-Acetyl Cysteine (NAC) is a powerful antioxidant and a precursor to glutathione, one of the body's most important antioxidants. When used topically in skincare products, NAC offers several benefits:
Antioxidant protection: NAC neutralizes free radicals, which can cause oxidative stress and damage to skin cells. This helps to protect the skin from environmental pollutants and UV radiation.
Anti-inflammatory properties: NAC has been shown to reduce inflammation in the skin, which can help to soothe irritation, redness, and other inflammatory skin conditions like acne and rosacea.
Boosts collagen production: NAC may help stimulate collagen synthesis, which can improve skin elasticity and firmness. This can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Supports skin barrier function: NAC can help to maintain the skin's natural barrier function, keeping it hydrated and preventing moisture loss.
Brightens skin: NAC has been found to inhibit the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for dark spots and uneven skin tone. This can help to brighten the skin and improve overall complexion.
N-Acetyl Cysteine (NAC) has demonstrated various benefits for skin conditions. In ichthyoses, it reduces hyperkeratosis and improves skin barrier function. In atopic dermatitis, it enhances skin hydration and reduces transepidermal water loss. In contact dermatitis, it protects against irritant reactions. NAC also shows potential in photodermatoses, protecting against photoaging, radiotherapy reactions, and possibly preventing melanoma. For melasma, it lightens skin by increasing glutathione and inhibiting tyrosinase. NAC's wound healing properties relate to its antioxidant action, nitric oxide system support, and stimulation of cell proliferation. In acne treatment, it reduces inflammatory lesions and comedones by quenching reactive oxygen species and inhibiting lipid peroxidation.
References:
https://ijdvl.com/n-acetylcysteine-in-dermatology/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6561714/
Urea:
Urea is a naturally occurring compound in the human body and is also used as a skincare ingredient. It offers several benefits for the skin, including:
Moisturization: Urea is a powerful humectant, meaning it attracts and retains moisture in the skin. It helps to maintain the skin's natural moisture balance and can alleviate dryness and itching.
Exfoliation: Urea possesses mild keratolytic properties, which means it can help to gently exfoliate dead skin cells from the skin's surface. This promotes a smoother and more even complexion, reducing rough or scaly skin.
Barrier function improvement: Urea can help strengthen the skin's natural barrier, preventing water loss and protecting the skin from environmental irritants and allergens.
Penetration enhancement: Urea can increase the penetration of other skincare ingredients, allowing them to work more effectively. This is particularly helpful for ingredients that target deeper layers of the skin.
Skin condition treatment: Urea is commonly used to treat various skin conditions, such as eczema, psoriasis, ichthyosis, and keratosis pilaris. It helps to reduce inflammation, itching, and scaling associated with these conditions.
Wound healing: Some studies suggest that urea can promote wound healing by increasing skin hydration and supporting the production of collagen, a protein essential for skin strength and elasticity.
Overall, urea is a versatile and effective skincare ingredient that offers multiple benefits for various skin types and conditions including the treatment of ichthyosis and hyperkeratotic skin disorders.
Reference:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9315586/
Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium:
Topical application of probiotics like Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium can have several benefits for the skin. These bacteria help maintain a healthy balance of the skin's microbiome, which plays a crucial role in skin health. Some potential benefits of using topical Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium include:
Strengthening the skin barrier: Probiotics can help reinforce the skin's natural barrier function, keeping it strong and resilient. This can help to prevent moisture loss and protect the skin from environmental irritants and allergens.
Anti-inflammatory properties: Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium can help reduce inflammation in the skin, making them useful for treating inflammatory skin conditions such as acne, rosacea, and eczema.
Antimicrobial action: These probiotics can inhibit the growth of harmful bacteria, including those that can cause acne and other skin infections. By controlling the growth of harmful bacteria, probiotics can help to maintain a balanced skin microbiome.
Improving skin hydration: Probiotics can help to maintain the skin's moisture levels, keeping it hydrated and supple. This can be particularly beneficial for those with dry or dehydrated skin.
Promoting skin healing: Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium can support the skin's natural healing process, helping to repair damaged skin and promote the growth of healthy skin cells.
Antioxidant protection: Probiotics can provide antioxidant protection, helping to neutralize free radicals that can cause premature aging and other skin damage.
Reference:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8955881/
Astaxanthin:
Astaxanthin is a powerful antioxidant derived from microalgae, with numerous potential benefits for skin health. Its antioxidant properties are stronger than those of other well-known antioxidants like vitamin C, vitamin E, and beta-carotene. The skin benefits of astaxanthin include:
Protection against UV damage: Astaxanthin can help protect the skin from the harmful effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation, reducing the risk of sunburn, photoaging, and DNA damage. However, it should not be used as a substitute for sunscreen but rather as an additional layer of protection.
Anti-aging properties: Astaxanthin's antioxidant properties help neutralize free radicals that can cause premature aging, such as fine lines, wrinkles, and age spots. By reducing oxidative stress, astaxanthin can help maintain a youthful appearance and improve skin elasticity.
Improved skin hydration: Astaxanthin can help increase skin moisture levels, promoting a smoother and more hydrated complexion. This can be particularly beneficial for individuals with dry or dehydrated skin.
Reduced inflammation: Astaxanthin's anti-inflammatory properties can help reduce redness and inflammation in the skin, making it potentially beneficial for those with inflammatory skin conditions like acne, rosacea, and eczema.
Improved skin texture and tone: Astaxanthin can help improve overall skin texture and tone by promoting the production of collagen, which provides structure and support to the skin.
Faster skin recovery: Astaxanthin can support the skin's natural healing process, aiding in the repair of damaged skin and promoting the growth of healthy skin cells.
Incorporating astaxanthin into your skincare routine, either through topical products or dietary supplements, can provide numerous benefits for the skin. However, as with any new skincare ingredient, it's important to test the product on a small area of skin first to ensure no adverse reactions occur.
Reference:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5946307/